10 UP AND COMING BRANDS OF THE NEW EAST PRESENTED IN A POP-UP GALLERY AT FACES&LACES 2019
FACES&LACES LOCALS REVIEW 2019: GALLERY FORMAT
THIS YEAR FACES&LACES LOCALS REVIEW PROJECT WILL BE ARRANGED IN A FORM OF A POP-UP GALLERY. FACES&LACES TEAM TOGETHER WITH THE CURATORS INVITED TEN LOCAL BRANDS THAT HAD NOT PREVIOUSLY BEEN PRESENTED AT THE EVENT TO PARTICIPATE IN IT. THE EXPOSITION WILL SERVE AS A VISUAL AND EMOTIONAL REPRESENTATION OF THE BRAND'S DNA.
ÖMANKÖ is a creative association and online platform dedicated to the most important in the world of modern fashion, culture and music. The creator of ÖMANKÖ Artem Ermilov launched a public group on VK social netwok in 2015. A year later, together with Gleb Kostin from Bogema, Ermilov created brand Öde. The only collection of Öde was sold at "КМ20" while ÖMANKÖ was turned into a multi-platform blog, producing their own merch and cooperating with international brands. On their resume are shoots for The North Face, Nike, IKEA, workshop with adidas, where ÖMANKÖ presented T-shirts with customized design. Merch for ÖMANKÖ is an element of the community that unites people who share similar views.
DOPECLVBWORLD is an alliance of young artists, musicians and designers, created in 2012 in Ufa. A greater part of the community is known primarily as a musical group: last year the team consisting of i61, basic boy and GLEBASTA SPAL performed on the main stage of FACES&LACES. However, as an association of the new format, members of DOPECLVBWORLD work in various genres of visual art, including design and painting, and will present themselves at the exhibition as a clothing brand.
Kislen'ko Racing is a small clothing brand that grew out of the ironic public group кэмп СЬ in VK. Inspired by the racing theme, the creators invented their own team and make merch using its "signature" yellow and black colours using the logos of fictional sponsors. However, they don't forget their roots and continue to explore dinosaur theme and still use funny prints in their clothing. Guys claim that the next idea can come from anywhere and the new collection may be dedicated to turtles, for instance. Kislen'ko Racing focuses on the basics: T-shirts, sweatshirts, hoodies and jackets with heartfelt and ironic messages as well as a large number of characters of their own fictional universe.
BOGEMA is a creative association of friends from St. Petersburg. Together they record music, set up parties, shoot lookbooks for other brands and produce their own clothing, which initially could only be bought on friendship basis or in very limited amounts.
They create things with ironic references to the most high-profile releases of current Western brands. Many items are hand-made: BOGEMA cut and re-sew second-hand items of clothing, inspired by the hits of Vetements. The group likes to do homages: among their desings you can find items created in honour of the cult anime "Akira" or the main British album of New Order.
Liars Collective is a brand from St. Petersburg, founded in 2017. The creator of the brand, graphic designer Anton Gorbunov, is mostly interested in working with prints. Silhouettes, in his opinion, can be modified using the visual images, that are correctly integrated in the design. Anton is also inspired by contemporary and street art, EDM and other fashion brands. The visual mood of Liars Collective is made up of pure lines, bold colours, large colour fills, bluer, bitmap, glitch effects, new typography, monochrome images and "museum"-ness.
In addition to the usual T-shirts and hoodies, the brand produces branded plates, toothbrushes and a zine, printed on the risograph, with the author's graphics and slogans.
Abu Blunt is a designer from Moscow who explores cross-cultural phenomena with the help of clothes. Through his collections, he told the stories of African immigrants in Russia, and turned traditional Muslim clothing into high-tech street wear. Almost all pieces Abu Blunt creates are in a single copy, and refer to the creation of clothing as to a work of art.
His other collection – "Fragment 4" – dissected stereotypes related to international terrorism, which are imposed in the media and through video games.
The brand was founded in 2017 by two guys from Japan and Belarus. Design for them is a way of communicating with the surrounding world: they put a message onto each item, the transmitter of which is the person who puts it on.
First pieces created by the brand were "pyjamas that are not for sleep and overalls that are not for work." The latest drop consists of black leather jackets painted in anarchist slogans that could be easily worn by British punks. The creators draw inspiration from objects seen in tool shops, characters from books or video games, and even from everyday objects around, at which the creators look in terms of design.
The brand was founded in 2018 by model and designer Andrey Mardo. The first collection of the brand – a graduation work from HSE School of Design – was presented in Paris, received a positive assessment from the media (Pairs Project, Vogue, Esquire, Buro 24/7), as well as from buyers of Moscow and European showrooms (Ettage, Color, INDEXflat, Aizel).
In his collections, the creator of the brand reinterprets military style in street fashion, exploring the anti-war painting of contemporary pacifist artists, as well as addressing issues of identity and individuality in the modern world.
The main sources for brand inspiration are actual social events in the world and their perception by people. Other references, according to Andrew, are often the people themselves, their creativity, thoughts, appearance.
Mad Frenzy is a Russian clothing brand that combines street wear aesthetics with design and technology. Avant-garde graphics correlates with signature colours, loose fits are covered with bold typography, custom fittings are embedded in the design of products.
Creator of Mad Frenzy Vadim Neumeykov grew up in the closed city of Seversk and is inspired by the noir atmosphere of such cities. In contrast to this mood, he often uses light colours and bright details to create clothes.
Vadim is constantly experimenting, striving to use advanced fabric processing technologies, as well as developing new font solutions, symbols and graphics. Contrast seams made of thick thread and branded patches have become recognizable details of the brand.
Mad Frenzy produces both coats, pants, outerwear and hoodies, sports pants and T-shirts made of high quality cotton.
The creator and designer of the brand, founded in 2015, Jean Rudov says that its style is reduced to three main components — cultural references, self-irony, as well as paradoxes that surround us in everyday life. While creating clothes, he looks for inspiration in books, album covers, movies, music, and even advertisements in the subway. Jean is amused by how differently people approach the styling of everyday wear and by their personal perception of clothing. Lumiér Garson by Jean Rudoff doesn't only create clothes, but also accessories, bags and jewellery. The latest collection is devoted to the influence of LSD on popular culture through music, art, cinema and poetry.